Ancient stone ruins with large arches and gothic windows under a cloudy sky beside a curved road.

Hornillos → Castrojeriz

September 16, 2026

tTWhat a difference two weeks makes. Today was 35 degrees cooler than when I started, and the wind was gusting at 16 to 18 mph. The heat that was draining me by late morning is gone.

The soreness that came with every step that first week has faded, and I think I've finally found my stride. My legs don't argue with me in the morning anymore.

The Camino is supposed to change you slowly, and I'm starting to feel it. Some of that is the weather, and some of it is that I'm just worked into a rhythm.
Ornate gold religious altar with statues, white and pink altar cloths, floral arrangements, and stone steps in a church.
The art behind the altar is called a retablo. It's very common in Spanish churches.
Wall mural in Hontanas showing the Camino de Santiago route with pilgrim figure and distance information
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